Dyeing Resource Archive

ការជ្រលក់ពណ៌ធម្មជាតិរបស់ខ្មែរ

តាំងពីបុរាណការមកប្រជាជន ខ្មែរប្រើប្រាស់ពណ៌ធម្មជាតិនៅ ក្នុងសហគមន៍របស់គាត់ ក្នុងការផលិតពណ៌។ ពណ៌និមួយៗត្រូវបានយក ចេញពីប្រភពផ្សេងៗគ្នា។

ពណ៌ខ្លះយកចេញពីសំបក ដើមឈើដូចជាសំបកដើម អំពិលទឹក សំបកដើមព្រីង សំបកដើមចង្រៀក ដើមខ្នុល និងសំបកដើមព្រហ៊ូតជាដើម។ មួយចំនួនទៀតយកចេញពីផ្លែគឺម្លែមក្លឿ។ ខ្លះទៀតយកចេញពីសត្វល្អិតដែលផលិតល័ក្តនៅលើដើមឈើគឺល័ក្តខ្មែរ។ ចំណែកឯដើមត្រុំត្រូវបានគេច្រូតយកទាំងដើម និងមែកដើម្បីផលិតពណ៌។ នៅមានការយកពណ៌ល័ក្តចេញពីស្លឹក មើម ដើម និងសំបកផ្លែឈើផ្សេងៗទៀតទៅតាមការសម្បូរនៅធនធានធម្មជាតិទាំងអស់នោះ។ គេចូលចិត្តផលិតពណ៌ចេញពីធម្មជាតិដែលសម្បូរនៅក្នុងសហគមន៍របស់គាត់។ ទាំងអស់នេះជាជម្រើសរបស់អ្នកផលិតពណ៌ដែលអាចស្វែងរកនៅក្បែរកន្លែងរបស់គាត់។

កីខ្មែរសូមលើកយកនៅពណ៌សំខាន់ៗចំនួន៤ពណ៌គឺ
១. ពណ៌ល័ក្តខ្មែរ (ក្រហម)

២. ពណ៌ព្រហ៊ូត (លឿង)

៣. ពណ៌មក្លឿ (ខ្មៅ)

៤. ពណ៌ត្រុំ (ខៀវ)

នៅក្នុងចំណោមពណ៌ទាំង៤នេះ ពណ៌ខៀវគឺជាពណ៌ដ៏លំបាកនិងទាមទារបទពិសោធន៍ច្រើនក្នុងការតាមដាន និងជ្រលក់ពណ៌។ កីខ្មែរបានដាក់ឈ្មោះពណ៌ខៀវថាជា (ស្តេចពណ៌)។

សូមរក្សាសិទ្ធិ @KeiKhmer

Ebony’s Color

Ebony is grown near people’s house. Most people used ebony fruit for traditional medicine to get out worm from human body in the old age. Otherwise, weaver used ebony fruit to dye cloth for their black uniform.  We also reproduce the natural dye of ebony fruit on yarn and cloth. We grind ebony fruit and mixed with black mud to get dark brown or black. It depends on the amount of mud and ebony that we mix with together. We also only use ebony fruit to get light or dark grey according to amount of the grinding ebony fruit.

Lac Khmer

Lac Khmer (Gum-lac) is  a thick red secretion from a certain type of very small insect that live on the Sangke tree and produce the color on the branches of the tree. It is used as a dye.

Cambodian wedding ceremony is also used Lac in the ceremony for women to be perfect women and live with peace and happiness.

In the weaving work, we use Lac Khmer to produce red or pink, it depend on the amount that we used to dye the yarn. We grind the Lac Khmer to be very small piece and put in the water to boil it to get dyeing water. Last, we can dye cotton or silk yarn.

Prohout

Prohout “Garcinia vilersiana” is the kind of tree that grows in the forest or mountain. We use prohout bark to get yellow. We need to chop the tree bark to be small pieces and boil them to get the color. It spends around one hour to boil the bark to get dyeing water. The dark or light yellow is depended on the amount of tree bark that we boil to get the color.

 

Annatto Seed

It is the kind of tree is grown near home or other areas to get seed for different purposes of cooking and dyeing materials. Weaver uses annatto seed to dye orange color on silk and cotton yarns.

 

 

Manila Tamarind

Manila Tamarind is a kind of tree that its trunk is spiny and has a single pair of leaves. This tree has fruits that we can eat it. In dyeing way, we use bark of tree to produce the color of light pink. After we cut the tree bark, we need to chop it to small piece and put in the water to boil it to get the color. In general, amount of tree bark can produce different colors. It means that if we want to dye  darker color we need more tamarind bark for dyeing.